Building a Zapper (CFAD ch. 3)
There will be several separate pages devoted to building zappers, which will be listed immediately below: #This page #Edit this item #Edit this item #Etc. This particular page contains the section of her book The Cure for all Diseases entitled "Building a Zapper." Building a Zapper Being able to kill your bacteria and other invaders with electricity becomes much more of a panacea when you can do it all in three 7 minute sessions. No need to single out specific frequencies or to sweep through a range of frequencies one KHz at a time. No matter what frequency it is set at (within reason), it kills large and small invaders: flukes, roundworms, mites, bacteria, viruses and fungi. It kills them all at once, in 7 minutes, even at 5 volts. How does it work? I suppose that a positive voltage applied anywhere on the body attracts negatively charged things such as bacteria. Perhaps the battery voltage tugs at them, pulling them out of their locations in the cell doorways (called conductance channels). But doorways can be negatively charged too. Does the voltage tug at them so they disgorge any bacteria stuck in them? How would the positive voltage act to kill a large parasite like a fluke? None of these questions can be answered yet. Other fascinating possibilities are that the intermittent postive voltage interferes with electron flow in some key metabolic route, or straightens out the ATP molecule disallowing its breakdown. Such biological questions could be answered by studying the effects of positive frequencies on bacteria in a lab. The most important question, of course, is whether there is a harmful effect on you. I have seen no effects on blood pressure, mental alertness, or body temperatures. It has never produced pain, although it has often stopped pain instantly. This does not prove its safety. Even knowing that the voltage comes from a small 9 volt battery does not prove safety, although it is reassuring. The clotting of red blood cells, platelet aggregation and functions that depend on surface charges on cells need to be in- vestigated. But not before you can use it. Your safety lies in the short period of exposure that is necessary. Viruses and bacteria disappear in 3 minutes; tapeworm stages, flukes, roundworms in 5; and mites in 7. One need not go beyond this time, although no bad effects have been seen at any length of treatment. The first seven minute zapping is followed by an intermission, lasting 20 to 30 minutes. During this time, bacteria and viruses are released from the dying parasites and start to invade you instead. The second seven minute session is intended to kill these newly released viruses and bacteria. If you omit it, you could catch a cold, sore throat or something else immediately. Again, viruses are released from the dying bacteria. The third session kills the last viruses released. Do Not Zap If You Are Pregnant Or Wearing A Pacemaker. These situations have not been explored yet. Don't do these experiments yourself. Children as young as 8 months have been zapped with no noticeable ill effects. For them, you should weigh the possible benefits against the unknown risks. That is all there is to it. Almost all. The zapping current does not reach deep into the eyeball or testicle or bowel contents. It does not reach into your gallstones, or into your living cells where Herpes virus lies latent or Candida fungus extends its fingers. But by zapping 3 times a day for a week or more you can deplete these populations, too, often to zero. Killing The Surviving Pathogens The interior of gallstones may house parasites inaccessible to the zapping. Eliminate this source of reinfection by flushing them out with liver cleanses (CFAD page 552). Although the center of the bowel contents is often unaffected by electric current, which lets bowel bacteria like Shigella, Escherichia coli (E. coli) and parasite stages survive, sometimes it is nearly all sterilized by zapping. This results in considerable shrinkage of the bowel movement. Eliminate remaining parasites and bacteria with a single dose (2 tsp.) of Black Walnut Hull Tincture, Extra Strength (see CFAD page 543). There is no way of distinguishing between “good” and “bad” bacteria with either of these methods. However even good bacteria are bad if they come through the intestinal wall, so zapping targets mostly “bad” bacteria. The good news is that perfect bowel habits often result in a few days. Evidently, the good bacteria are benefited by killing the invasive ones. Home-made yogurt and buttermilk (see CFAD Recipes) are especially good at recolonizing the bowel. But it does not seem wise to culture yourself with special commercial preparations and risk getting parasite stages again when you can become normal so soon anyway. If you do decide to take some acidophilus bacteria to replenish your intestinal flora make sure you test for parasites like Eurytrema first. When a large number of parasites, bacteria and viruses are killed, it can leave you fatigued. Try to give yourself a low-stress day after your initial zapping. But there are no significant side effects. I believe this is due to the second and third zapping which mops up bacteria and viruses that would otherwise be able to go on a feeding frenzy with so much dead prey available. To build your zapper you may take this list of components to any electronics store (Radio Shack part numbers are given for convenience). Zapper Parts List {C} Hints for absolute novices: Don't let unusual vocabulary deter you. A “lead” is just a piece of wire used to make connections. When you remove a component from its package, label it with a piece of tape. A serrated kitchen knife works best as does a large safety pin. Practice using the microclips. If the metal ends are L-shaped bend them into a U with the long-nose pliers so they grab better. Chips and chip holders are very fragile. It is wise to purchase an extra of each in case you break the connections. Assembling The Zapper 1. You will be using the lid of the shoe box to mount the components. Save the box to enclose the finished project. 2. Pierce two holes near the ends of the lid. Enlarge the holes with a pen or pencil until the bolts would fit through. Mount the bolts on the outside about half way through the holes so there is a washer and nut holding it in place on both sides. Tighten. Label one hole “grounding bolt” on the inside and outside. 3. Mount the 555 chip in the wire wrap socket. Find the “top end” of the chip by searching the outside surface carefully for a cookie-shaped bite or hole taken out of it. Align the chip with the socket and very gently squeeze the pins of the chip into the socket until they click in place. 4. Make 8 pinholes to fit the wire wrap socket. Enlarge them slightly with a sharp pencil. Mount it on the outside. Write in the numbers of the pins (connections) on both the outside and inside, starting with number one to the left of the “cookie bite” as seen from outside. After number 4, cross over to number 5 and continue. Number 8 will be across from number 1. 5. Pierce two holes ½ inch apart very near to pins 5, 6, 7, and 8. They should be less than 1/8 inch away. (Or, one end of each component can share a hole with the 555 chip.) Mount the .01 uF capacitor near pin 5 on the outside. On the inside connect pin 5 to one end of this capacitor by simply twisting them together. Loop the capacitor wire around the pin first; then twist with the long-nose pliers until you have made a tight connection. Bend the other wire from the capacitor flat against the inside of the shoe box lid. Label it .01 on the outside and inside. Mount the .0047 uF capacitor near pin 6. On the inside twist the capacitor wire around the pin. Flatten the wire from the other end and label it .0047. Mount the 3.9 KW resistor near pin 7, connecting it on the inside to the pin. Flatten the wire on the other end and label it 3.9. Mount the 1 KW resistor and connect it similarly to pin 8 and label it 1K. 6. Pierce two holes ½ inch apart next to pin 3 (again, you can share the hole for pin 3 if you wish), in the direction of the bolt. Mount the other 1 KW resistor and label inside and outside. Twist the connections together and flatten the remaining wire. This resistor protects the circuit if you should accidentally short the terminals. Mount the 3.9KW resistor downward. One end can go in the same hole as the 1K resistor near pin 3. Twist that end around pin 3 which already has the 1K resistor attached to it. Flatten the far end. Label. 7. Next to the 3.9KW resistor pierce two holes ¼ inch apart for the LED. Notice that the LED has a positive and negative connection. The longer wire is the anode (positive). Mount the LED on the outside and bend back the wires, labeling them + and - on the inside. 8. Near the top pierce a hole for the toggle switch. Enlarge it until the shaft fits through from the inside. Remove nut and washer from switch before mounting. You may need to trim away some paper with a serrated knife before replacing washer and nut on the outside. Tighten. 9. Next to the switch pierce two holes for the wires from the battery holder and poke them through. Attach the battery and tape it to the outside. NOW TO CONNECT EVERYTHING First, make holes at the corners of the lid with a pencil. Slit each corner to the hole. They will accommodate extra loops of wire that you get from using the clip leads to make connections. After each connection gently tuck away the excess wire. 1. Twist the free ends of the two capacitors (.01 and .0047) together. Connect this to the grounding bolt using an alligator clip. 2. Bend the top ends of pin 2 and pin 6 (which already has a connection) inward towards each other in an L shape. Catch them both with an alligator clip and attach the other end of the alligator clip to the free end of the 3.9KΩ resistor by pin 7. 3. Using an alligator clip connect pin 7 to the free end of the 1KΩ resistor attached to pin 8. 4. Using two microclips connect pin 8 to one end of the switch, and pin 4 to the same end of the switch. (Put one hook inside the hole and the other hook around the whole connection. Check to make sure they are securely connected.) 5. Use an alligator clip to connect the free end of the other 1KΩ resistor (by pin 3) to the bolt. 6. Twist the free end of the 3.9KΩ resistor around the plus end of the LED. Connect the minus end of the LED to the grounding bolt using an alligator clip. 7. Connect pin number 1 on the chip to the grounding bolt with an alligator clip. 8. Attach an alligator clip to the outside of one of the bolts. Attach the other end to a handhold (copper pipe). Do the same for the other bolt and handhold. 9. Connect the minus end of the battery (black wire) to the grounding bolt with an alligator clip. 10. Connect the plus end of the battery (red wire) to the free end of the switch using a microclip lead. If the LED lights up you know the switch is ON. If it does not, flip the switch and see if the LED lights. Label the switch clearly. If you cannot get the LED to light in either switch position, you must double-check all of your connections, and make sure you have a fresh battery. 11. Finally replace the lid on the box, loosely, and slip a couple of rubber bands around the box to keep it securely shut. • Optional: measure the frequency of your zapper by connecting an oscilloscope or frequency counter to the handholds. Any electronics shop can do this. It should read between 20 and 40 kHz. • Optional: measure the voltage output by connecting it to an oscilloscope. It should be about 8 to 9 volts. Note: a voltage meter will only read 4 to 5 volts. • Optional: measure the current that flows through you when you are getting zapped. You will need a 1 KΩ resistor and oscilloscope. Connect the grounding bolt on the zapper to one end of the resistor. Connect the other end of the resistor to a handhold. (Adding this resistor to the circuit decreases the current slightly, but not significantly.) The other handhold is attached to the other bolt. Connect the scope ground wire to one end of the resistor. Connect the scope probe to the other end of the resistor. Turn the zapper ON and grasp the handholds. Read the voltage on the scope. It will read about 3.5 volts. Calculate current by dividing voltage by resistance. 3.5 volts divided by 1 KΩ is 3.5 ma (milliamperes).